Cycling in Taiwan

cyclists riding down ren'ai road in taipei on car free day 2006

Cyclists on Ren'ai Road during Car Free Day in Taipei 2006

This section includes information about cycling in Taiwan. The mountains of Taiwan have some great mountain biking trails and there is an expanding network of bicycle paths being built around the island.

Taiwan is one of the world's leading bicycle manufacturers. The Taipei Cycle Show held annually in March is one of the biggest bike industry trade shows in the world. The Tour de Taiwan, an international cycling stage race, is also held in March each year.

Introduction to Cycling in Taiwan

On first impression Taiwan might not seem like the greatest place to ride a bike. The cities are polluted and the traffic seems chaotic. Don't let first impressions put you off. You don't have to go too far beyond the city limits to find quiet roads and clean air. A bicycle is one of the best ways to discover Taiwan's beauty. Even in the cities a bike offers a cheap, convenient and fast way to get around once you get used to the traffic conditions.

Taiwan is a world leader in bicycle manufacturing. Although many factories have moved their operations to China in the last few years, Taiwan is still headquarters to companies like Giant and Merida. It is also a centre for research and development. The Taipei International Cycle Show held every March, is one of the world's most important trade shows for the bicycle industry.

Taiwan is also a good place to buy a bike. Retail prices are relatively cheap. For example the Giant Rincon (2006) retails for US$340 in the USA and US$220 in Taiwan.

There has been an increase in the popularity of recreational cycling in Taiwan in recent years. In Taipei this has no doubt been aided by the construction of an extensive network of bike paths, mainly along the rivers. I wrote this article on my blog about some of the obstacles to increasing the number of people cycling in Taiwan. The government policy still doesn't take cycling as transport seriously and the urban environment is not particularly ideal for cycling.

Mountain bikers head for the hills near Taipei

Mountain bikers head for the hills near Taipei

Cycling in Taiwan links

News articles

Other cycling links

Rides around Taipei and Taiwan

Here are some of rides that can be done as day trips from Taipei and further afield. They will take you into the mountains where the clean air and beautiful scenery will make you feel like Taipei is a million miles away.

Bikes can be taken on the MRT in Taipei although conditions apply. In summary only on weekends and public holidays before 4:00 pm and after 7:00 pm and only at certain stations. Pick up a leaflet in English from any MRT station for more details or check this article on the MRT website (detailed regulations here ). This can be a convenient way to access the network of bike paths along the rivers in Taipei. A map of the paths in Taipei County can be found here. You can also download the Taipei Metro’s Guide to Hiking and Cycling (5MB pdf file).

It is possible to hire bikes at many locations around Taiwan. There are bike hire stations at most places where bike paths have been built. For example, in Taipei they can be found at numerous places along the riverside bike paths including Bali, Guandu, Dadaocheng, Gongguan and Xindian. If you want to hire a high quality bike for touring then you can rent a Giant from one of twenty stores around Taiwan. More details here. Alan's Mountain Bike in Taipei also rent quality mountain bikes and organise rides on weekends.

This Taipei Times article contains information about many of the bicycle paths around Taiwan. Have a look at Rides and Trails on the Formosan Fat Tire Association's web site. It has lots of information about some off-road trails around Taipei as well as rides elsewhere in Taiwan. There are dozens of roads and trails offering great riding so just get out there and explore!

Links about bike rides in Taiwan

Rank recommends some great rides around Taipei and around the island.

Antonio Graceffo rode around Taiwan and the story of his ride is at Bike China Adventures. Here are more links from people who have got out and about on their bikes in Taiwan.

Manyue Yuan (Full Moon Park): A bike ride in the mountains

David and bike at the entrance to Manyue Yuan

David and bike at the entrance to Manyue Yuan

Setting out early in the morning from my home in Panchiao (板橋) the traffic and pollution wasn't too bad. I cruised along through the industrial areas of Tucheng (土城) and Sanhsia (三峽) until I finally reached the turn-off to Manyue Yuan (滿月圓). Just after the turn-off I stopped for breakfast. A twelve year-old boy sitting opposite me attempted to strike up a conversation. He asked me how I was and my name, but his English ability quickly reached its limits. After a few moments of embarrassing silence he worked out that I could speak Chinese and continued the conversation. He asked me where I was from and I told him Australia. "But you really look like an American," he replied.

Starting off again the trucks and noise of the main road soon gave way to peace and calm. There was hardly a car to be seen and I was surrounded by mountains. It is no wonder that that the Portuguese called this place Ilha Formosa (The Beautiful Isle). I was grateful that some of that beauty had still escaped destruction and I could reach it in little more than an hour's bike ride from my home in the midst of the city.

The road followed a river and wasn't too steep allowing me to enjoy the beautiful scenery. I stopped on a small bridge across the river to admire the view. The water looked so clean and pure. A stark contrast to the dirty and polluted waterways of Taipei.

Finally, just two hours after leaving home I reached my destination, Manyue Yuan (Full Moon Park). The men at the gate invited me into their hut to drink tea and chat. They were friendly and spoke some English. After about twenty minutes chatting and drinking tea I left my bike at the gate and walked into the Park. I wandered along the path enjoying the fresh air and beautiful surroundings. It was easy to forget Taipei was just a short distance away. It could just have easily been a million miles away.

Manyue Yuan

I walked up to a stunning waterfall surrounded by steep cliffs. I stopped for a while to enjoy the beautiful surroundings before heading down again. Jumping on my bike again it was easy rolling back down the hill. About halfway back to Sanhsia I took an alternative route which involved a fair bit of climbing. I was exhausted by the time I reached the top, but then I had a long, long downhill run. I only saw about two cars on this road and the entire valley seemed barely inhabited.

When I got back to Sanhsia I once again had to cope with the traffic and pollution. The places I had left behind seemed like another world, the contrast was so strong. I was thankful for my bike, the perfect vehicle to travel to another world.

Route information

If you can read Chinese the route is well signed and easy to follow. Take Zhongyang Road through Tucheng (經土城市中央路) toward Sanhsia (Sanxia 三峽). In Sanhsia follow the signs that say south in Chinese until you get to the turn-off where there is a brown sign with white writing in Chinese that says Manyue Yuan (滿月圓 Full Moon Park) and Lele Gu (樂樂谷 Happy Valley). The route number is 114. Traffic is heavy through Tucheng and Sanhsia. Look out for the big trucks. Once you turn off the main road onto route 114 the traffic is light.

Keep travelling along route 114. The road follows a river and the gradient is gentle. I rode the whole way in the middle chain ring. Manyue Yuan is at the end of the road, although there are a number of branch roads so try to ask somebody if you are not sure exactly where you are going.

The return journey is a gentle downhill roll. No need to pedal! I took an alternative route on the way back. I turned onto route 109. (Turn right just before the Da Bangen Forest Spa Resort 大板根森林溫泉度假村). This road involves a long climb though. I needed the small chain ring here! There is almost no traffic on this road. Once you get to the top it is a very long winding downhill run. Great fun! Eventually you will come out on the road between Sanhsia and Hsintien (新店 Xindian) and the going is flat all the way home.

The table below shows the approximate distances from Sanhsia to Manyue Yuan. It took me about two hours to get from Panchiao (Banqiao) to Manyue Yuan. I rode at an average speed and made two short stops on the way. Depending on your fitness level it could take anywhere from one and half to four hours. Also it will take a bit longer from Taipei than from Panchiao. There are also many side roads that could be explored by those who have the time or the inclination for adventure.

Distance Table Sanhsia 0.0 km Route 114 start 3.0 km Da Bangen Forest Spa Resort 7.0 km Manyue Yuan 21.0 km

1 October, 2002

I did the ride again in July 2006. Details and some more photos can be found in this article on my blog.

Taipei - Pinglin - Shiding circuit

mountain bike on the road from Pinglin to Shiding

mountain bike on the road from Pinglin to Shiding

This is a great ride that follows a circuit from Taipei to Pinglin (平林) and return. Once you pass through Xindian (新店) and begin climbing into the mountains you quickly leave the city behind. The mountain scenery is gorgeous and the gradient is gentle meaning you are not so exhausted that you can't enjoy the views. It's about 13 kilometres of continuous climbing before the road flattens out and you are rewarded with some great views from
the top.

Pinglin is a small town and every shop in the main street seems to be selling the same thing - tea! Tea is the main business of this town and it is home to the Pinglin Tea Museum. The museum is in an attractive setting and has some excellent displays.

A small road leads from Pinglin to Shiding (石定) and then back to Taipei. It climbs up and up amongst the tea fields until you finally reach the top and can then roll down to Shiding. Around Shiding they are busy constructing the Taipei to I-lan (宜蘭 Yilan) freeway. This is sure to change the character of this area somewhat, although much of the freeway will actually go through tunnels.

Route information

The route is very easy to follow. From Xindian take route 9 to Pinglin (follow the signs to Pinglin and I-lan). It is 26 kms from Xindian to Pinglin. About half is a gentle climb upwards and then a nice roll down to Pinglin. Traffic is moderate, but the road is twisty and sometimes narrow and you need to look out for the trucks.

From Pinglin follow route 106 (乙 yi) back to Taipei. This road is narrow but traffic is light. The climb out of Pinglin will test your legs. Once you get to Shiding the road is fairly flat all the way back to Taipei. You will come out in Muzha (木柵), near the Taipei Zoo.

There are several alternative routes you could follow. From Pinglin you could continue on route 9 to I-lan. From Shiding you could also turn off on route 106 to Pinghsi (平溪 Pingxi) and Ruifang (瑞芳).

3 October, 2002

* I travelled along this circuit by motorcycle in November 2006. The construction of the freeway is now complete, but it is still possible to ride this as per the information above. A recent account of the ride is available at Biking in Taiwan.

** Also see the page about Pinglin for information about the Jingualiao Bicycle Paradise (金瓜寮鐵馬新樂園), a network of bike paths along the river near Pinglin.

Taipei to Wulai and beyond

Mountain valley above Wulai Town

The ride from Taipei to Wulai (烏來) is pleasant but not particularly remarkable. Past Xindian the city is quickly left behind. The road follows a river valley all the way up to Wulai town. The road goes up and down a bit and there are some nice views of the river and the mountains along the way.

However, the road doesn't stop at the township of Wulai. In fact the ride beyond Wulai is the real reason for riding to Wulai. It takes you high up into the mountains where you will find the most incredibly beautiful scenery. If you go on a weekend you will be sure to see plenty of other cyclists along the way.

Swimming hole on the Tonghou River

The road climbs gently up into the mountains and you soon leave all signs of the city behind. There is not much up here, just a road and a river and amazing scenery. The further along the road you go the more beautiful it gets. There is a nice waterfall along the way and several places where you can swim in the river. 

David at the Tonghou Trail

The end of the sealed section of road is marked by a small suspension bridge across the river. From here I suggest continuing up the river about one kilometre. Don't cross the suspension bridge, just go past the barriers on the right hand side.The trail comes to a kind of end where two rivers meet. It is possible to continue on from here all the way to Yilan (宜蘭) although the trail is difficult and you need to be well prepared. A detailed account of this is available here. 

river crossing on the Tonghou River trail

Route information

It is 16 kms from Xindian (新店) to Wulai. The road is mostly uphill but not steep. Look out for buses and speeding cars as there is no shoulder in places. Traffic on this road can get heavy on weekends. It is generally not too bad in the mornings though.

When you get to Wulai cross the small bridge past the Family Mart then immediately turn left and follow route 9 (甲 jia). It branches off occasionally but the road isn't too difficult to follow. The traffic is light, but the road is narrow and there are many blind corners so you need to ride carefully. You can follow this route for 26 kms (from Wulai) before the road ends. There is a gate along the route where you should stop to buy a mountain permit for a small fee. You need to bring your passport or Taiwan ID card for the permit.

5 October 2002

updated 22 June 2008

Links

  • Cycling along the Tonghou River -David on Formosa (June 2008)
  • RIDE: Wulai - Tongho - Jiaosi - excellent May 2008 report at Cycle Taiwan
  • Cycling to Wulai
  • Wulai #2 trail
  • Cycling Taiwan: Taipei to Wulai (return)

    • The Tucheng loop

    bend in the road at Cha Shan in Tucheng, Taipei County

    I headed out of Tucheng along Zhongyang Road toward Sanxia. Here one enters a kind of nowhere land. The crowded areas of Tucheng are left behind and Sanxia is still some distance ahead. There is nothing there apart from a few small factories and betel nut stands.

    Just as the road passed under the freeway I turned left down a small road. There was hardly a car or motorcycle to be seen. The road slowly wound up into the hills past a curious mix of small temples and factories. Further along the road there is less industry and more natural scenery. 

    Eventually I arrived at the area near Shanxi Temple (善息寺) where I regularly go hiking. The hill in the picture above is Cha Shan (茶山), the highest point on the road, named after the tea fields that cover it. From the top of the hill the road goes off to Sanxia in one direction and back to Tucheng in the other. After the hard work of climbing up it was a fast and easy trip back down passing near Chengtian Chan Temple (承天禪寺).

    I wouldn't recommend riding all the way from the other side of Taipei to do this ride but if you live in the Banqiao/Tucheng/Zhonghe area then it is a good short ride through the hills and a welcome escape from the city. 

    Originally posted at David on Formosa, 7 December 2006.